It’s suppertime at Trader Vic’s restaurant in Emeryville. About 30 people are in a backroom, about to try an oyster soup called “Bongo Bongo” that hasn’t been served here since the time of Harry S.

I went to a local pub for a Sunday roast and on the menu it advertised that it came with unlimited Yorkshire puddings. When I asked for a top-up, the waitress said I’d been given an old menu and the ...